black and white

All of the PCTs, including ourselves, just spent the last couple of days shadowing currently serving PCVs. We traveled to their site to see them “live and in action”. Matt and I shadowed a PCV couple, Tony and Marie. Tony and Marie have been here for almost two years and will be completing their PC service in August. They are Youth Sector PCVs working on literacy in the parish of St. Thomas. FYI: Jamaica has parishes instead of states, although they are probably more like counties since Jamaica is roughly the size of Connecticut.



Marie and Tony are some of the most successful PCVs currently on island, and it was such a blessing to spend some quality time with them. Not only this, but it was wonderful to get out and about on our own, to see more intimately what we might be doing. Tony and Marie’s placement is in the Jamaican “bush”, and hence a unique experience for us, considering that we’ve spent all of our time thus far in Kingston, or the surrounding suburbs. Tony and Marie are Black Americans and so when they brought each of us to their respective schools (I went with Marie, and Matt with Tony), we might as well have been aliens. St. Thomas is one of the poorest parishes in Jamaica, and as a result not very many white tourists penetrate into these Bush towns. Even adults venture to their windows to peer out at the fair-skinned anomaly walking down the street. Many of the kids will constantly try to touch our skin and hair, sometimes even staring at their own hand after we have shook hands with them. Marie introduced me to a 2nd grade girl yesterday saying, “Hi Shoshana, this is my friend Julie.” Shoshana’s immediate response? One word: “White.” To which Marie said, “Good eye!” And I, “Wow, you know your colors!” The kids stared at us when we walked into each classroom, eyes bugging out of their heads while giving a slow and shocked wave. They see white people on TV all the time, but live and in the flesh, that’s something else. As Marie put it, ‘You’re definitely a novelty to them.’

White skin comes with many different stereotypes in Jamaica, probably the most prevalent being “money”. To kids, we come from the world of Hannah Montana, video game systems, and Toys R Us. These young ones are usually altruistic in their wonder. They simply know that we look different and come from a far away world, somewhat of a fantasy in their minds.

Of course this “rich” stereotype holds true with adults as well. I won’t get into the stir we sometimes cause walking through Kingston when vendors, taxi drivers, beggars, and unfortunately tiefs (pickpockets) flock to us. Along with this comes what people here refer to as a “skin tax” –when those same vendors, drivers, etc. jack up the price because of your skin tone. (This can even be the case with lighter-skinned Jamaicans, referred to as “brownins.”) Normally, Matt and I would be considered rich by Jamaican standards. But, just a reminder to all, we are in the PC. Which, as we constantly have to inform those hassling us means, “No money…. Me no tourist. Me a teacha. Ya a elp di pickney. Me live ya. Dis me yard too.” Which brings up another thing, Jamaicans seem to have the utmost respect for teachers. Once they know that you’re a teacher, here to help the children (“pickney”), everything changes. You’re now theirs to protect.

All this can be draining and frustrating at times, but understandable all the same…. Plus, it can make you feel somewhat special sometimes when walking down the street, kids stop their play time, stand up and wave exuberantly at you with big smiles, only to say “White people!!”